Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Transportation

For the 2nd least densely populated country in the world, roads are very easy to come by in Namibia. There are well maintained, paved roads between every major population center in the country.`Cars and transportation, however, are another story, especially for the Peace Corps Volunteer (beggar). Here's a rundown on the options:

Rent a Car
This is easy to do in Windhoek and is the most convenient option for anyone traveling in Namibia. Of course, you may need to drive manual, and you will have to drive on the left side of the road. This option is not possible for Peace Corps Volunteers, since they're not allowed to drive, and I suspect it wouldn't be in our price range anyway.

The Intercape
is a humongous box-shaped transport vehicle otherwise known as a bus. Besides some other ill-run services which are poorly advertised and impossible to contact, the Intercape is the only bus service in Namibia, and its only function is to ferry tourists to hotspots in Zimbabwe, Namibia, and South Africa. This pretty much means a cushy ride between Cape Town and Victoria Falls or any of the places in between, meaning Keetmanshoop, Windhoek, Otjiwarongo, Rundu, Katima Mulilo and any podunk village in between. I believe the Cape runs to Swakopmund as well. Tickets must be booked ahead of time. If you don't do this physically at their office in Windhoek, then the process is straight out of a time before credit cards and e-tickets, when dinosaurs roamed the earth. First, you have to call and make a booking. Then, you have to go to your local Bank Windhoek branch (mine is located conveniently 200 kilometers away) and wire the money to them. After that, they will fax you a ticket. An e-commerce consultant could go far in this country. As usual, this option is too expensive for regular use by a Peace Corps volunteer.

Combis (Kombis?)
are small vans piloted by entrepreneurial Namibians. They tend to congregate in designated areas of town, usually a gas station or an appropriately sized patch of dirt. I'm told you actually need a license to operate a combi and that there exists a union, but looking at a group of combis, you would never know it. There are no signs, and the combis themselves generally lack any markings identifying a company or phone number. A combi area essentially looks like a bunch of guys standing around their vans waiting for something. While the prices of rides between destinations are set and non-negotiable, the timing of that ride generally depends on fate. A combi leaves when the combi is full. A combi can semi-comfortably seat around 9 people. A full combi typically consists of 11 fat ladies, their screaming children, and myself. In their defense, however, combis are fast, cheap(er), and reliable, insofar as you will get to your destination sometime on the day you leave. You can also get the phone numbers of combi drivers and if you have a large enough group to make it worth their while, you can usually get them to ferry you and your companions almost anywhere you want. A viable option for the volunteer in a hurry.

Hiking
does not mean strapping on your boots and walking the 800km to your destination. If a Namibian says they are hiking, they mean hitchhiking. The process is simple enough. Walk out to a road, wait for a car, then wave it down. There are some hand signals you can use to expedite the process. The height of your hand is a general indicator of the distance you wish to travel, and if there's a turn coming up, you should indicate which direction you will want to go in. Surprisingly, the prices for hikes between destinations seem to be standard, as if all Namibians had a meeting to decide them. Hike prices are lower than combi prices, the rides are usually infinitely more comfortable, and Peace Corps Volunteers often get lucky and receive free hikes from wealthier curious people in nice cars (a foreigner hiking is a very rare sight). Obviously, hiking can be risky business. No, not from a security standpoint - the hitchhiking culture is so ingrained that crimes related to hiking are very rare. The problem is simply that you might not get a hike on the day you want one, or your hike might not be able to take you all the way to your destination. Fortunately for volunteers, there is always a friend nearby willing to let a stranded colleague couch surf for a night. I've heard of Peace Corps Volunteers who travel internationally this way, staying for free with other volunteers, even those outside of their own country. Inexpensive, and makes for excellent stories.