Diary of Deliciousness: Chakalaka

In Namibia they have something called Chakalaka. No, it's not some sort of Pagan god, or even a heavy metal band (although it would be a fantastic name for one).

Chakalaka is, put simply, spicy deliciousness in a can. Ingredients are as follows: Tomatoes, Carrots, Onions, Sunflower Oil, Cabbage, Green Bell Peppers, Spices, Salt, Chillies, Garlic, Corn Starch, Acidifier, and Natural Coloring. This seemingly innocuous blend of vegetables and spices produces flavors that can enhance virtually any meal. Koreans have kimchee. Mexicans have salsa. Indians have curry. Namibians have chakalaka. It goes on everything, because it's just that good.

Since chakalaka has a salsa-type consistency, it is very versatile in the Namibian kitchen. Add to pasta sauce for that extra kick. Put on top of eggs for that extra kick. Use as a meat marinade for that extra kick. Indeed, because other Namibian foods tend to be bland, that extra kick is often necessary. To attempt to use words to describe its flavor would be utter folly. Its heat comes from chilies, but that is the only aspect of chakalaka that I can convey accurately.

Language Lesson: Thimbukushu

Of the many languages in Namibia, I am learning one called Thimbukushu. Thimbukushu is a Bantu language, making it one of the most complex on Earth. The Bantu languages I've heard so far (Otjiherero, Rukwangali) all have what's called a concord system. Basically all nouns are divided into semantic classes (a noun class for humans, a different noun class for animals, another noun class for household objects, etc). In Thimbukushu, there are 10 different noun classes, plus a special class for the gerund and infinitive form of verbs (the gerund and infinitive are identical in Thimbukushu). Depending on what class a noun is in, it will have different prefixes for singular and plural forms (for example, in the human class: maguva is one person, haguva is people). That much is simple enough, but the different classes also conjugate differently with verbs and adjectives. Basically, verbs and adjectives will adopt different prefixes depending on the class of the noun that they are operating on. I believe the different classes also have different possessive particles, also. I would give more specifics, but I'm still memorizing all the classes, and their concords, as the particles used in conjugation are called. Fortunately there are no exceptions to the rules, and all nouns can be put into classes based on their prefix (except for words borrowed from other languages).

However, as difficult as the system may seem, it has some interesting linguistic potential. For example, if you want to personify an animal, you can use the human noun class prefixes with that animal instead of the normal prefixes.

A really neat thing about Bantu languages is that they are phonetically very similar to Japanese. Actually, Japanese is a phonetic subset of Bantu languages, which means that Bantu language speakers make all the sounds that Japanese people make, and a few more (like nasals). I really like the way Thimbukushu sounds. The language flows well, and has a soothing tone. It also lacks any guttural sounds, which I am not a fan of.

Important Locations: Spar

In Namibia, the most common chain of supermarkets is named Spar. You can easily spot a Spar by its logo, an evergreen inside a circle. Despite the contradiction of using a tree that doesn't exist in Namibia, Spar's green beacon can be found in all major towns, like a herald of air conditioning, cold drinks, and western food.

In case you haven't noticed, Spar is one of my favorite getaways in Namibia. They are pretty much comparable to a good Shop Rite or small Wegman's in the States, since they all have some ready-made foods available in addition to normal groceries, and sometimes, you just need a Coke. Peace Corps Trainees will often congregate in Spar, resulting in an event known as a Sparty. However, Spar must be used with care. A PCV that attends Spartys too often will quickly run out of money.

Towns and Locations

In Namibia, cities are divided into sections called Town, and Locations. In a city, Town refers to the area with established businesses, chain stores, hotels, and modern homes. If a person lives in Town, it's pretty much a guarantee that they're wealthy and connected. In a single city, there's only one Town area.

Locations are the areas outside of town where blacks were forced to live during apartheid (now there are also many blacks living in Towns). A Location is laid out similar to a suburb in the US, but the housing is mostly cement and corrugated tin, with some all-concrete buildings used for small businesses. Some people may also run small businesses out of their homes. In the Locations I've seen, the roads are mostly packed dirt, which is actually good because children are almost always playing soccer in the street and the dirt forces cars to drive slow. I hesitate to compare Locations to ghettos or tenements, because all Location houses have electricity, running water, and modern conveniences (I've yet to meet a Namibian who doesn't own a TV), but people in Locations are undoubtedly poorer than those in Town. However, Locations are complete communities with schools, parks, and churches. I can't speak for all cities, but in Omaruru, the Locations are safe at all times of day. The worst problem in Locations I've seen has been public drunkenness. In each city there can also be multiple Locations, always segregated by ethnic group (I'll talk about the ethnic groups in another post), although it doesn't seem to generate any great animosity if a member of an ethnic group settles in a different group's Location.

Towns are generally nice and comfortable. Stores have air conditioning; there are roads, sidewalks, and plants; buildings are very clean. As an American, Towns feel familiar to me. But Locations are way more interesting. In the Location in Omaruru, children are play together in the streets (when school's out), and people are go about their business or visit each other. In Location, it's ok to just talk to people and make friends, or drop by the houses of people I know for quick visits. Every house and business also has a lot of individual character. In Omaruru, one man built a white two story castle on his land in the Location. While that example is extreme, it gives a good sense of the diversity and fun one can find in Locations.

New Hair

I think the picture pretty much says it all.

My host sister did it with hair extensions. It was painful but I think it looks awesome. Feel free to compare me with The Predator.

Namibian Wildlife: Road Hazards

In Namibia, the main roads are very well maintained and would feel
normal to any US driver, excepting the fact that they drive on the left.
Even smaller gravel and sand roads are well packed down and safe. And
since Namibia is so sparsely populated, there are hardly any other
drivers to worry about. The primary road hazards of Namibia are the
various forms of wildlife that jump or run in front of vehicles. As in
the states, prime time for wildlife is dawn and dusk.

Kudus are agile, deer-like, moose-sized animals with long curly horns.
For some reason, it is the kudu's instinct to jump in front of, or into
moving vehicles. Combined with their size, this makes them the number
one wildlife road hazard in Namibia. Crashes with Kudu are so common in
Namibia that almost every Namibian I've spoken to has had this
experience. I have been in a car which only just clipped a kudu's tail,
thanks to our Peace Corps driver's reactions and 6th sense for detecting
kudu.

Oryx are slightly smaller than kudu but look very similar. Their main
distinguishing feature is perfectly straight horns. I was told it is
their instinct is to jump parallel with moving vehicles so it is more
rare for them to be involved in accidents, but their size still makes
them a danger.

Springbok are about the size of deer in the US, and look very similar to
deer, except that the males don't have the distinctive antlers of bucks
in the US. I have yet to get a good look at one, and it seems like they
are very wary of moving vehicles. That said, I ate springbok meat for
dinner today so they must get hit once in a while.

Warthogs in Namibia are about the size of large cats, but they are often
grazing by the side of the road in groups. I'm told they're hit
relatively often when they wander into the road. Because of their small
size, they're not a major hazard, although I'm told that they have more
mass than it seems.

Dik dik look exactly like deer sans antlers except they are the size of
a large dog. Yes, they are absurdly cute and the subject of many
inappropriate jokes. Unfortunately, they share instincts with the kudu
and are hit often. Due to their size and mass, they are not a major
hazard. They also fit conveniently into a large plastic bag (pictured)
and are delicious.

In Namibia, it is technically against conservation laws to personally
transport, prepare, and eat roadkill. People are supposed to report
roadkill so it can be donated. I can understand that this is to prevent
people from trying to hit things for a free meal, but the culture of
Namibia seems to be that it is acceptable to keep roadkill as long as
you share it. Practically speaking, nobody would purposely hit even a
dik dik because of possible damage to the vehicle.

Culture Brief: Handshakes

Namibians have a particular handshake which is used across the entire
country. The handshake begins normally with a single firm pump, then the
thumbs are hooked with the fingers wrapped around the other person's
wrist. Finally, the handshake is finished by bringing the fingers back
down into the normal handshake position and giving another firm pump.
Always use the right hand to shake.

After the handshake has ended, some people will continue to hold your
hand for a while as the conversation continues. This is relatively
common in Namibia. Note that this handshake appears to be for Namibians.
If you attempt this handshake and you are obviously not Namibian, they
may hold their hand still during the wrist-grab phase. However, if a
Namibian initiates this style of handshake with you, it is a sign that
they accept you and are comfortable with you. An additional sign of
respect I have observed in the Kavango region is to touch your right arm
just under the elbow with the fingers on your left hand.